March 17, 2018
To the uninformed Patrick’s Irish Pub, open in central Ljubljana since 1995, is just a quiet doorway in a rather anonymous street, with no windows to be seen and an air of quiet desertion, especially if passed in the daytime, as it doesn’t open until 17:00.
It doesn't look promising from the street, but keep going down and you'll be rewarded. Photo: JL Flanner
But go through the door, then down the steps, through another door, down some more steps, and you’ll find yourself in a snug two-room basement that’s as a good place to hide from the world as any you’ll need when in town, and one that’s long played a role in bringing more interesting beers to Ljubljana.
Decorated in worn stone and wood, with a nice fake window effect at the back of the main room, it’s got far more than Guinness on the menu (here), with an extensive selection of local and imported beers, both on tap and in bottles, as well as ciders, Irish whiskies and scotch (and various specials). The basic Union / Laško can be had for 3 EUR, while Guinness is 5 EUR a pint (0.56 l). (Note that my pint was served in a Kilkenny glass, which seemed somewhat sacrilegious, but then isn’t a wildly on theme Irish bar, and you won’t hear ‘The Irish Rover’ on the hour.)
The main room, with a nice fake window at the back to help you lose all sense of time and place. Photo. Patrick's website
There’s a short menu of fried snacks, including fish and chips, chicken wings and burgers, running from 2 to 18 EUR, with most between 5 and 10. I haven’t eaten here because in general I don’t eat anything other than peanuts or chips at places with more drinks than food on the menu. In my experience they tend to be either indifferent to the food or too expensive; but this is a simple heuristic to keep my animal passions in check and spending down, and your mileage may vary. Certainly all of the items on the menu look like they’d be fantastic if hungry and drunk, and this is a fantastic place to get drunk in.
Aside from the drinks, the Irish theme can be seen on the walls, with old ads, rugby memorabilia and commonwealth flags hanging there, although the TV in the small front room was playing basketball on my last visit, rather than hurling or camogie. Indeed, the place seems to be used by ordinary locals who won’t be telling you how James and Nora once spent the night in a Ljubljana park after getting off at the wrong station (or how they were bound for Trieste when it was Slovene), nor has anyone ever engaged me in a debate about Brexit, but I can’t say these things won’t happen in busier times when you encounter an actual expat or tourist.
Another view of main room, and note that whenever possible I avoid posting images of innocent drinkers enjoying themselves online. Photo. Patrick's website
Overall, with its location deep underground, just a simple door and sign to hint at the pleasures within, as well as an extensive collection of bottled beers and fried food, Patrick’s Irish Pub is a good place to hunker down and wait until whatever storm your facing blows over, or to celebrate with people and drinks. It’s open from 17:00–01:00 Tuesday to Saturday, so note the lack of day-drinking options, and closes an hour earlier on Mondays, Sundays and holidays. Events, offers and the like can be found on Facebook or the website, while the place itself is just off Trubarjeva cesta and not far from either Dragon Bridge or the Prešeren Square, at Prečna ulica 6.
